Lena Horne

Welcome to the first pattern designed by the incredible Tabitha Sewer herself! The second Tabitha asked me to make one of these I couldn't say yes fast enough and I couldn’t be happier with how it turned out!

This pattern, the Lena Horne dress, is the first designed by Tabitha Sewer in her self-titled line. It's a pinafore-style dress that fits sewing sizes 0-24 with princess-seam ruffles that continue into crossing back straps. You can pick between two lengths - a midi or an above-the-knee. Personally, I already can’t wait to see her upcoming patterns and who they’re named after!

Now when I was planning out this dress, I found out that I have this unforeseen summer tradition of finding a specific fabric that I fall in love with and feel the need to buy every inch of it within an hour radius. This year's fabric is this white-and-blue-striped cotton with a navy blue embroidered border. I found the first 4 yards at the JoAnn’s 15 minutes from my house but couldn't find any more closer than an hour away (4yds) or 40 minutes away (11yds) so guess where I went! (Spoiler: I totally had 15 yards of this at one point)

Cotton Fabric with Embroidery Border-Blue & White Stripes

Opening the Lena Horne, I was so excited when I saw that the patterns were printed on a bigger, printer-quality paper instead of the typical tissue. As I mentioned earlier, it also fits sizes 0-24 (B cup) but it’s also really easy to grade up if you need to!

Lena Horne with Added Grading

So for my measurements, (Bust 52-53”, Waist 50-52“, Hips 59-61”) I had to add a little to the bust (1/4” to each folded half piece, so 1/2” per pattern piece, for a total of 1.5”) and a bit to the waist (1” on each folded half piece for a total of 6”). I also adjusted the length by adding 1.5” to accommodate my larger (D) cup size. Oh I also sewed with 1/2” seams instead of 5/8” (personal preference). Since this pattern is drafted to fit a 5’6” woman I also had to shorten the skirt to fit my 5’3” self.

Typically the size 24 midi-length Lena I made would have taken around 2.75 yds of my 51” fabric. HOWEVER, between adding on additional width and length, cutting my bodice on one grain and my straps and ruffles on the opposite, and placing my skirt pieces just right to be able to use that gorgeous border as my hem it definitely took a bit more than 2.75yds😂 OH I also forgot to mention that it wasn’t until I had fully committed myself to this striped goodness that I realized that I’d need to use an additional white fabric as lining for the bodice (which is required in the pattern) AND the skirt (which isn’t). I just used some of the bleached muslin I had laying around .

Lena Horne Ruffle Detail

SO when you’re making the Lena Horne, make sure you’re in a patient mood if you choose to gather your fabric the old-fashioned way (a long running stitch, pulling the thread while you bunch the fabric up - I didn’t have any cording handy to gather it the other way that Tabitha suggests in her tutorial). My patience wore thin a couple of times because my thread kept breaking and since I had to gather two full skirts, I wasn’t the happiest at that moment. HOWEVER this dress is pretty simple and quick to make so you can get a couple out in a day once you get yourself going.

I had SO much fun making this dress up and it’s been incredible to be a part of this experience as this dress marks the first pattern for Tabitha! For more information on the Lena Horne and to purchase, visit Tabitha’s website at www.tabithasewer.com!